Leeds Metropolitan University

Everest West Ridge 2006

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John O'Hara

Location

Travelling to New Tingri

Time

19th April 2006

Day 8

Altitude: 4300m
Barometric Pressure: 598 mbar
Temperature: Very Cold

On the 19th April the visiting team departed Shigatse continuing along the Tibetan highway for New Tingri at 4300m. We say highway but dirt tracks would be a better description. Views were spectacular, though not quite as mountainous as we were expecting; you could have been in North Wales at certain points along the way.

Again the lunch stop provided another opportunity for us to generate entertainment for ourselves and the locals. Louise and Dave took the chance to distribute Leeds Met pens and clothing badges to some of the local schools children. An easy exercise you would have thought; however, once the first pen was given out they were mobbed by at least 30 children all making requests. At one point the children were almost tackling each other to obtain the small gift. This provided an excellent photographic opportunity. Tibetans are very photogenic, but they usually request payment. However, when without expectation they give you hugs, as Louise found out, it can be quite a shock.

After lunch we started a steady two hour climb in the vehicles, reaching the summit of the pass at 5200m and the entrance to the Everest National Park. This provided another insight into the severity of the challenge for all Everest West Ridge teams. Upon exiting the vehicles at this altitude we all gasped for air and immediately recognised the significance of the altitude concern. At the same time, these moments also made us realise that our objective was getting closer. Here the weather also changed for the worst, with visibility down to 40 metres due to incoming snow. Drivers in convoy had to be on top of their game. This has usually been the case on our journey, but there is the odd occasion where the words ‘no, no, no’ can be heard from the back seats. Overtaking another vehicle on a ‘blind corner’ or ‘flirting’ with the edges of a dirt-track which drop into a gorge can be ‘hair-raising’ to say the least.

On arrival at New Tingri, it became apparent that John Allan was not feeling too well, due to the increase in altitude. Unfortunately this is a routine occurrence when attempting to reach Everest base camp. The extent of the sickness was such that he needed to descend immediately (i.e. back to Lhasa) allowing a full recovery at lower altitudes. The immediate drive back to Lhasa was organised like a military operation, with support and help coming from a wide range of individuals across the visiting expedition team. As you can imagine this was hugely appreciated and encouraging for the rest of the team.

One of the Leeds Met team needed to accompany John back to Lhasa; a drive we had completed over the previous two days. However, to address the altitude sickness as quickly as possible, the return journey had to be non stop. Dave Jackson selflessly offered to take up the challenge in the knowledge that he was jeopardising his chances of making Everest. Thus, John and Dave were driven through the night, reaching Lhasa at approximately 0800 the following the morning. During the journey, John recovered well, without concern. With full recovery, arrangements were promptly made for Dave to make a return to the expedition. There was a small opportunity to catch the rest of the visiting team prior to the expedition’s departure for Road Head Base Camp. A second and daunting 12 hour journey back to New Tingri was facing Dave. In total, this meant that Dave was on the road for 43 hours constant with minimal rest.

Physiologically Dave was fatigued through lack of sleep, but he may have gained an unlikely benefit from having made the significant drop in altitude as well as having traversed the 5200m pass on three separate occasions. Dave’s journey may have assisted his acclimatisation and final push for Everest base-camp. Altogether, the incident - although unfortunate - reminded expedition members of the serious, intense physical and psychological challenge ahead. The last two days have tested the planning, rigor and professionalism of the Leeds Met team. Our planning and preparation for such eventualities meant that roles and responses changed quickly in accordance with the situation. Whilst events remain unfortunate and devastating for John – expedition members feel reassured and supported in cases where emergency protocol and procedures need to be applied.

Other noticeable observations on arrival at New Tingri, were the drop in temperature and minimal amenities of our accommodation. For instance, team members purchased extra warm clothing, then wore them constantly around the residence. There was also no running water or heating. The cold draughty rooms lead to some of the team reaching into their kit bags for extreme down sleeping bags even before arrival at Road Head.

During the evening of the 19th April, a latest update from the Main team arrived. It was good to get an update highlighting the progress on Everest. Despite bad weather causing delays we hear most of the team are progressing well and as planned. Weather forecasts for the approaching days were also communicated. It appears the weather looks good for the approaching five days. This brings great optimism in the expedition group for a successful initial ascent and sight of Everest.

For those of us at New Tingri on the 20th April, we spent the time relaxing and walking to help us acclimatise prior to our departure for Road Head Base Camp at 5200m, tomorrow morning.

As mentioned in the previous reflection, Leeds Met expedition members continue to face challengea in the approaching days. There is a great sense of anticipation as we look to reaching Road Head Base Camp tomorrow and then on to Tilman’s Camp in the following days.

Carnegie Visiting team 26 April

John O'Hara 24 April

John Allan 24 April

David Jackson