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Everest West Ridge 2006

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John O'Hara

Location
Travelling to Shigaste
Time
18th April 2006

Day 7

Altitude: 3800m
Barometric Pressure: 630 mbar
Temperature: Moderate

The Everest West Ridge Visiting Team departed Lhasa on the 18th April travelling in Land Cruisers across the Tibetan plateau. The plateau is an arid, barren desert-like valley which winds its way West toward Shigatse. The journey was to provide only a moderate increase in altitude; a gain of 200m.

The journey from Lhasa to Shigatse was initially delayed by two hours, as one of the hired drivers crashed his vehicle, at low speed, into an unmarked police car in the first turn out of the hotel. No real harm was done, although expedition member enjoyed ‘camcording’ the unfolding events. Arrival at Shigatse was therefore not until 1530. Without lunch, expedition members descended upon the hotel restaurant; who opened just for us. In Shigatse, no ‘Westerners’ nor Western influence could be observed. It was also interesting to note that we are only one of a few expedition groups to travel on this route through Tibet.

The restaurant provided a reasonable amount of entertainment. Most of the team ordered soup, which in hind sight was probably a mistake, as we were expecting a standard bowl of soup not a fruit bowl filled to the brim. To our astonishment, soup was still arriving 2 hours and 30 minutes later. The ‘soup challenge’ was quite an endurance test in itself; however, under instruction from Louise we consumed every spoonful; we needed the calories and fluid. Whilst following instruction, it was with great relief that many had not ordered a main course as well!

Shigatse itself was quite an intriguing place. Similar to the street markets of Lhasa, Shigatse could also be associated with the street smells of Yak butter and animal fat. Streets were aligned with small workshops and stores of every variety from tea- houses to welding and repair stalls. The main thoroughfare had some substance, but, as similar to an early U.S. Western town, there was nothing behind it; quite surprising since this is Tibet’s second city with a population of approximately 40,000. However, what could be observed from both entering the city by car and from walking around was the significant amount of development and urban planning occurring e.g. road and rail infrastructures.