Leeds Metropolitan University

Everest West Ridge 2006

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John Allan

Location

Old Tingri

Time

31st May 2006

Old Tingri (4200m)

Tingri gives it’s name to two settlements (old and new). They are separated by 60 kilometres of moonscape plateaus and sandy mountains. I now have a claim to fame of visiting both towns, although my encounter with the new version was somewhat limited due to my earlier encounter with Acute Mountain Sickness.

Old Tingri is the original and exudes authenticity and full flavour – a bit like Budweiser Budvar. It could be described as a one yak town, only there are hundreds of them. As it seems, there are dogs and horses. Many of these roam freely and scavenge. There is something quite disconcerting about a cow eating from a litter bin.

The dust is continually circulated by a wide assortment of transport ranging from horse-drawn carts to what look like giant lawnmowers with trailers. The noise and smells are overwhelming. The pleasant being women openly singing and burning incense. The unpleasant – midnight howling dogs, and open latrines.

It seems that the tourist trail to Qomolangma (Everest as we named it) hasn’t altered this place. Maybe because some prefer upgraded accommodation in New Tingri. There are few foreign faces here.

Whatever the reason, they are missing out. Cleanliness and electricity is at a premium, but genuine hospitality and eccentricity are here in abundance.

John Allan is researching Psychological Resilience with the Everest West Ridge Expedition

Carnegie Visiting team 26 April

John O'Hara 24 April

John Allan 24 April