Leeds Metropolitan University

Everest West Ridge 2006

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Carnegie Visiting team

Location

Tilman's Camp

Time

26th April 2006

Day 15
Altitude: 5465m
Barometric Pressure: 517 mbar
Temperature: -20 at night

Yesterday saw all the Visiting Team, with the exception of Dave Jackson, trek from Road Head Base Camp to Tilman’s Camp. Dave has performed extremely well so far and the extra return journey to Lhasa has probably taken its toll. Dave therefore chose to remain at Base Camp for additional recovery time.

The trek from Road Head Base Camp to Tilman’s took approximately six hours, which could be described as a test of physical and psychological endurance. The initial section of the trek contained a gradual increase in altitude along the valley floor; formerly a glacial moraine. Some three hours later, we eventually climbed out of the valley floor onto a path which traversed further upward toward the source of the Rombuk glacier. At this point frequent breaks were required; yaks and yak drivers carrying our equipment passed us at this point. Each yak carried approximately 40kg each, with the weight comprising duffle bags, cooking utensils and tents. To reduce demands in the trek, expedition members minimised weight, carrying only day sacks which often weighed less than 5kg. However, even this load did not make the journey easy; the harsh climate coupled with reduced oxygen (due to altitude) meant that not everyone was likely to succeed in making the full journey.

The final traverse alongside the glacier also required a progressive increase in altitude. Members certainly noticed these demands as short, sharp and steep sections in snow pushed breathing and heart rates to maximal zones. With great relief, eventually Tilman’s could be seen on the horizon; the whole expedition visiting team had arrived. Dave Bunting (expedition leader) and Malcom Russell (team doctor) anticipated our arrival and came upon the ridge to meet us. Both for the expedition Visiting team and Main team, this was a great morale boost. Our arrival was met with welcoming, smiling faces and much conversation. We found out later that they had only been in camp five minutes prior to our arrival, having been on Everest for several days.

Following arrival, team members followed instruction and guidance, with team members staying awake until late as well as eating and drinking everything in sight. While the food and drink intake may not have been nutritionally balanced, this was the least of our concerns after expending all that energy. Priority now was to obtain calories, thereby helping to minimise the chances of suffering from acute mountain sickness.

The remainder of the day was spent talking to all Main team members presently at Tilman’s. We discussed their experiences so far, as well as examine whether Leeds Met’s support had assisted during these early stages of the expedition. Thus far, feedback has been extremely positive. Our overall contributions are appreciated and recognised by the team, and are perceived as an integral element to their continued success in ascending Everest. Whether Everest via the West Ridge is sumitted, we shall have to wait and see over the coming weeks.

Rising on our first morning at Tilman’s, brought back the reality of trekking at these altitudes as another member of the Visiting team became unwell overnight. Unfortunately, the individual had to be urgently taken down firstly to Road Head Base Camp and then secondly to Kathmandu for recuperation. Here it is important to note that not everyone acclimatises at the same rate or can perform at these altitudes. Headaches, loss of appetite and sleeplessness are all common-place and can culminate in fatigue and/or illness, which necessitates a rapid decrease in altitude for recovery.

Not too far away down the valley, we received a satellite phone call from Dave Jackson at Road Head Base Camp. He indicated that he was fit and well and of course absorbing the magnificent scenery of the Everest valley. Dave today confirmed his decision not to attempt the long arduous trek to Tilman’s. All visiting team members were sad to hear this news, but we feel it is the best and right decision, considering the amount of time we have remaining at Tilman’s. We look forward to meeting up with Dave again on Friday on our return trek down the valley.

At present, the weather at Tilman’s is even ‘harsher’ than Road Head Base Camp, with lower temperatures and regular snow showers. Tonight we have had at least 30 cm of snow, with the wind taking the temperature down to -20 Oc. John O’Hara hopes that weather conditions for tomorrow will improve, as this will provide him with an opportunity to ‘take a shot’ at climbing for Camp 1. Louise and Steve will remain at Tilman’s to continue gathering research data and feedback from the main team members. Let us hope that tomorrow brings yet another exciting day within the Everest valley.

Carnegie Visiting team 26 April